In This Issue - Port Ellen 40 Year Old Tasted
Tomatin and Langatun release new wine cask finishes.
Quick Musings
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An Outstanding 40-Year-Old 1983 Port Ellen from Duncan Taylor
Islay, the picturesque island nestled in the southernmost part of the Inner Hebrides, is renowned for its rugged beauty, rich history, and, most importantly, its whisky. Among the many distilleries that dot the island, the one name that has achieved mythical status is Port Ellen. I have yet to meet any lover of peated whisky who does not jump at every opportunity to taste the spirit from this closed distillery. The fascination is only going to snowball in intensity as the distillery is reopened imminently with production due to commence later this year.
Fortunately, some independent bottlers hold stock of Port Ellen casks and occasionally bottle an expression onto the market. One example is Duncan Taylor who has just released a 1983, which was distilled just weeks before the distillery closed. I view it as a
privilege to taste these historic whiskies and do my utmost not to be influenced in my opinion by the rarity, historical importance and value of such samples.
Duncan Taylor is a name many of you will be familiar with and is synonymous with the quality of their whisky. Founded in 1938, they have established themselves as a well-regarded independent bottler and distiller, offering a wide array of exceptional single malt and blended Scotch whiskies. You may of tried expressions from the Octave or Black Bull range.
One of the hallmarks of Duncan Taylor's approach to whisky is their commitment to authenticity and tradition. The company specialises in acquiring and maturing casks from various distilleries across Scotland, allowing each one to develop its unique character over time. Often these are bought to the company HQ in Huntly, on the eastern fringes of Speyside to slowly mature in their own warehouse. This was the case for their latest release, which has to be regarded as one of the most exciting from anyone this year.
Forming part of their ‘Rarest Collection’ this 40-year-old Port Ellen was distilled on March 16th, 1983. This expression was drawn from cask 667 which yielded just 209 bottles and matured in a European Oak ex-sherry butt, with the cask initially stored on Islay, until it was laid down to finish maturing in the vaults at Duncan Taylor’s HQ in 2010. Each hand-finished decanter is sequentially numbered with a signed certificate of authenticity.
I was able to visit the Duncan Taylor HQ in early September to see the bottle and packaging in advance of its release. Unpacking it from the protective packaging you instantly knew it was going to be rather special by its weight. What emerged was a branded white flight case with the decanter of Port Ellen sitting firmly inside. With gold lettering and stopper, it looked every inch the part. Chatting to Ian Logan from the distillery, I discovered there maybe further casks bottled in the future. My guess is a 50 year old but that would of course be dependent on how the whisky is maturing. It would certainly be interesting to taste them side by side.
The Chairman of Duncan Taylor, Chairman, Euan Shand, commented on this 1983:-
“When I bought the company from Abe Rosenberg’s family back in 2001, the inventory was incredible, with some amazing rare and old whiskies. The casks of Port Ellen were ones that really stood out for me as something special and we’ve patiently waited for them to mature, bringing that rich, dark colour to the liquid. The cask has created an evocative whisky that embraces the peat from the kilns and the brine of the sea, alongside a succulent rich fruity base. It’s one of the finest whiskies we’ve launched this year and that’s saying something.”
Upon opening the sample, I was greeted with wafts of well-worn Connely leather followed by scents of an orange posset dessert and salted caramel. A smokiness built as the liquid evolved in the glass. On the palate, I found roasted hazelnuts and walnuts that had been smoked in a cooling BBQ. Hints of dark morello cherry and chocolate started to show through with time, complemented by traces of cinnamon and clove. It was quite an extraordinary whisky and one that I shall remember for a long time.
Owning this bottle is akin to owning a piece of history - Port Ellen is perhaps the most collectable closed Scottish distillery and to own a bottle with such a high age statement is a true privilege.
This 1983 Port Ellen is available for £5700 at therarest.duncantaylor.com
Tomatin Distillery: Bridging Tradition and Innovation
Nestled amidst the serene landscapes of the Scottish Highlands, conveniently located between Inverness and Aviemore, the Tomatin Distillery has gained widespread acclaim for its exceptional wine cask finishes—a facet that resonates profoundly with my own passion stemming from my background in the wine trade. When the opportunity arose to attend a dinner showcasing their latest triumvirate of expressions, each in an Italian wine cask finish of Marsala, Amarone, and Barolo, I eagerly embraced the invitation.
Italy holds a special place in my heart, often prompting me to visit its enchanting landscapes and savour its culinary delights up to five times a year. The allure of this nation lies not only in its remarkable food, hospitable people, exquisite wines, and breathtaking scenery but also in the rich tapestry of culture that thrives in its wine regions. It's a tapestry woven with threads of time, appreciation, and an unwavering passion for the unique terroirs and the exceptional produce that sets these regions apart. While regional diversity in the world of wine is a common theme, Italy's mosaic of flavours, dialects, and traditions is truly remarkable and unique.
Though I get great pleasure from whiskies matured or finished in sherry, sauternes, or other sweet wine casks, it's the allure of dry red wines that captivates my palate. The distinct flavour profiles that emerge from these casks offer a fascinating journey of exploration, as I seek to uncover the intricate aromas and tastes reminiscent of the original wines.
Our tasting experience unfolded at the prestigious Henrietta Hotel in the heart of Covent Garden, where we were treated to Old Fashioned cocktails and canapés prior to our tasting. I intend to delve into a more comprehensive profile of Tomatin in the future, thus, for now, I shall confine this article to the whiskies in this release.
All three expressions, Marsala, Amarone, and Barolo, share a common birthdate of December 2010. They began their maturation in oak casks for a decade, followed by an additional two years of refinement within ex-Marsala, Amarone, and Barolo wine casks. This two-year finishing period allowed the individual characteristics of the wines to intricately weave themselves into the very fabric of the whiskies, yielding a trio of delicious drams.
Marsala Edition:
Distinguished by a rose-tinted hue, the Marsala Edition shows aromas of panettone, dried apricot, and toasted nuts. Its palate strikes a balance with subtle sweetness, with notes of dark chocolate, tangerine, and nuanced spices, all elegantly interwoven with the influence of oak.
Amarone Edition:
Initially showing a reserved nose, the Amarone Edition gradually unfolded its charms after resting in the glass for 10-15 minutes, revealing cherries steeped in vin santo. This expression has a delightful savoury quality, accompanied by a medley of rhubarb crumble, cloves, and custard. While the term "smooth" is oft-overused, it is undeniably apt here, with flavours that linger.
Barolo Edition:
Demonstrating a more assertive nose, the Barolo Edition has fragrances of sour cherry, aniseed, and thyme. Following an initial delicacy on the palate, its flavours evolved in the glass with notes of cherry bakewell tart, orange syrup, and vanilla. It was complemented by a subtle hint of acidity, which, whether real or imagined (Amarone is known for it), added an intriguing dimension to the structure of the whisky.
Scott Adamson, Tomatin’s Blender & Global Brand Ambassador, on the trio of whiskies:
“The Italian Collection combines the rich tapestry of Italian wine culture with our elegant Highland single malt whisky. Italy has a historic, unrivalled passion for single malt scotch whisky, so this latest trio of releases is a tribute to that longstanding relationship with a unique take on our traditional Highland malt.”
“We aimed to capture the essence of Italian wine—its history, nature, landscape, and traditions – and weave it into our whisky, all embodied within a single glass. Each expression in this collection is a testament to the seamless blending of these two worlds, offering a truly exceptional tasting experience for whisky lovers.”
All are available in limited quantities at 46% ABV, non-chill filtered and with an RRP of £70.
Langatun New Releases
Swiss distillery Langatun have released three new whiskies and I have to say they excite me. I love tasting whisky from European distilleries, especially when they have been matured or finished in ex-wine casks. These do not disappoint and I would happily drink any of them as they not only intrigue me but hold my attention with their flavour profiles.
Rioja Cask - 49.12% and 367 bottles released.
The first thing that you notice on the nose is the meatiness, like reduced roast beef juices which is wonderful. I almost want to grab a piece of sourdough and dip it in. Then come the stewed damsons, smelling like a compote. The palate is sweeter than the nose would suggest and full of stone fruit, spice and frangipane notes. Really very delicious with a notable length that just lingers. It has 100% been aged in Rioja casks and is a single cask bottling.
Madeira Cask Finish - 49.12% and 525 bottles released.
The very deep colour hints at what is to come. You can definitely smell the Madeira with caramel, walnuts and spices showing well. On the palate, there is a wonderful dryness, vanilla and herbaceous notes. In a good way, it reminded me of Jaegermister or even a Sazerac cocktail - quite extraordinary. It was initially matured in Chardonnay casks for around 4 years before spending 18 month finishing in Madeira casks.
Monbazillac Cask - 49.12% and 473 bottles released.
A scented nose of lemon meringue pie with a Chantilly cream laced with cinnamon that is gorgeous. This gives way to a palate of orchard fruits, including stewed apple, vanilla and manuka honey that keeps drawing you back for more. This was originally aged in a Chardonnay cask before spending 14 months in a Monbazillac cask.