Mossburn Calvados Cask
+ An interview with Neil Mathieson
Mossburn 12-Year-Old “Famille Dupont” Calvados Casks 57.2%
Mossburn Distillers and Blenders continue to impress with their thoughtful and innovative cask finishes, and this 12-year-old expression is no exception. Neil Mathieson, Mossburn's master distiller, has selected 18 casks from four Speyside distilleries to undergo a finishing process in Calvados casks sourced from the Dupont family.
Famille Dupont, a household name in Calvados production since 1887, has a long-standing relationship with Mathieson spanning over 30 years. With such pedigree and experience on both sides, it’s little wonder this whisky piqued my interest. Speyside whiskies, renowned for their orchard fruit notes, seem a perfect match for the apple-driven essence of Calvados. It’s a pairing so logical and complementary, that I often wonder why it isn’t explored more often.
This delivers everything you’d hope for and more. Apple-forward notes burst onto the palate, accompanied by warming cinnamon and vanilla that wrap around you like a cosy blanket. It evokes the comforting sensation of enjoying a homemade apple crumble fresh from the oven. This whisky isn’t just about comforting puddings, but the creamy texture with subtle ginger spice, roasted nuts, and a drizzle of honey, might make it seem so. They are all tied together by a generous ABV that intensifies the flavours without overpowering them.
At 57.2%, the whisky packs a punch, yet it remains balanced and inviting. For those of us who love cask innovation or simply those who enjoy rich, orchard-inspired drams, this is one you don’t want to miss. I asked Neil a few questions about the release:-
It has a very creamy finish - did you pick the 18 barrels specifically with this in mind?
The barrels were a mix that we chose to match the four Speys in the blend. These were all heathery floral types rather than my standard mix, where I balance this with heavier meatier distillates like Mannochmore and Auchroisk. So, we deliberately chose a mix of 10yo and 20yo wood which meant that there would still be some extraction from the French oak. These casks had held a mix of young Calvados of 3yo-5yo and some older 10yo+ balanced by a few Pommeau casks. These added the green/red apple complexity and a light edge of sweetness. The sizes varied from 220-400 litres.
With Speyside traditionally having notes of orchard fruit, why do you think it isn’t finished more often in Calvados casks?
Like many finishes, it took a little while to develop a balance between the extraction from the seasoned wood and the whisky filling. The florality and gentle sweetness only really became apparent after about 9 months. Calvados does not have a global volume presence big enough to ‘flavour’ many products and the producers are not using a huge amount of new wood or small barrels. This was an opportunity for Dupont to manage an influx of new oak, so they were happy to work with us on a smallish number of barrels.
You have worked with the Dupont family for 30 years - what makes them such a great producer?
My friend Etienne Dupont makes very articulate Calvados with a decided edge of oak spice, a clarity of fruit perhaps at odds with the heavy ‘old cask’ and stewed apple style of some other producers so an ideal collaborator! He took a few of our sherry and peated barrels to fill with his own spirit for some future single-cask offerings.
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