HOUSE OF HAZELWOOD RELEASE THEIR THIRD COLLECTION OF EXTRAORDINARY WHISKY

I have written about the House of Hazelwood extensively before. On this occasion, I thought it would be interesting to interview Jonathan Gibson, a director of House of Hazelwood to find out how they curated this, their third, extraordinary collection of whiskies. My tasting notes are below the interview. 

Roughly how many barrels were tasted before selecting the whiskies included in this collection?

Like all the best questions there is more than one answer to this! Our blending team monitor and sample our inventory of casks on an ongoing basis and they are constantly looking to build a picture of the maturing stocks held across the estate to identify those that are approaching their peak. What they then bring to us is a ‘short-list’ of typically between fifty to one hundred samples, showcasing the most noteworthy spirits that are ready for release. 

We then take time to consider the strengths and merits of each liquid on its own, discuss whether it is suitable for release as it is or perhaps could be enhanced further through blending and consider how each of the individual whiskies could fit together within a broader collection. We have the support and guidance of both the blending team and a representative from the family as we complete this process.

How long does the selection process take for each collection?

The selection process is conducted over a number of months. It takes time to identify and select casks to be sampled – and of course, the casks themselves need to be manually located within the warehouses and samples drawn by hand. Our goal is to uncover the hidden gems, the unusual flavours, and parcels of whiskies that we think are exceptional within the family’s collection. Variety is also an essential element. We don’t stipulate that we need to create a set number of blends or blended malts or grains or that we need a set number of releases of a given age within each collection. The aim is to find a collection of eight whiskies that hang together as a coherent whole – that make sense yet each have highly individual characters and provenance. Sometimes five or six of the releases within a given collection will jump out of the first tasting session we complete, the others may take longer to agree upon – and of course, every time you go back to the warehouse for something else it takes time. The way we look at it is that the casks have been waiting for up to sixty years so we try not to rush the selection process – sometimes, you do just need to allow a little time.  

Are you seeing any of the House of Hazelwood collection being served in premium hotels?

Yes, we have just had a listing agreed at one of the world’s most iconic luxury hotels, Gleneagles, for their award-winning American Bar. The range is also available at Rothes Glen a luxury castle specially for whisky connoisseurs in Speyside and we are in talks with a number of five-star hotels in London and cities around the world.

Do any of the whiskies have a particularly interesting story behind them?

Certainly – in fact we would say that they all do! This is actually part of our mindset when setting out to shape a new collection – we want each collection to contain a variety of styles of whisky, of different ages sourced from different categories and eras but we also want each collection to have the capacity to tell different stories about the industry, to take the consumer to different times and places, production practices. This is very important to us – given the great age of our inventory, every whisky we sell has a story. A big part of our job is to find that story, to articulate it and to do justice to the remarkable spirit held inside every bottle.

Our most recent collection is an interesting case in point. We never set out with a particular theme in mind but depending on what we uncover that then inspires the names and theme for each whisky. On this occasion, we started to identify a few that linked back to the theme of travel and paying homage to the adventuring spirit of the Gordon family over the years. 

This is particularly reflected in our four Legacy Collection whiskies which includes The Transatlantic, a 33-year-old Blended Grain which celebrates the American oak influence on scotch whisky, while the tasting notes of The Silk Traveller, a warming 44-year-old Single Grain are evocative of the travels and smells you experience in the souks and bazaars of the far east.  There are also two in this collection that celebrate Scotch whisky regions, including Queen of the Hebrides, a 36-year-old Islay Blended Malt Scotch Whisky, using whiskies from Islay. While we don’t set out to match up the whiskies, due to the breadth and depth of our stocks we were able to create a sibling to The Lowlander, which was released previously, resulting in The Hazelwood Highlander, a 33-year-old Blended Scotch whisky. Thereby showing the different styles of whiskies we can produce.

How do you decide when a whisky is at its peak for release, especially when dealing with such aged spirits?

One of the interesting things about Scotch is that it is very hard to describe exactly what it means for a liquid to be at its peak – quality is subjective, everyone has a different view and of course, nobody can say for certain how a cask might change in the future if held back for longer. All that said, making a call on when a greatly aged whisky is ready to come out of cask is often a surprisingly simple decision – typically these whiskies are the ones that jump out of the glass during the initial nosing and tasting panels and most often there is broad agreement that they are ‘ready’. This is perhaps not the same thing as saying that they have reached some kind of peak inflexion point and that if left longer in cask they will go downhill – but it does mean that they are exceptional and it may be hard to envisage them improving much further.

A great example of this is our 46-year-old Blended Scotch release – Spirit of Scotland. This was a blend initially prepared in 1994 as an 18-year-old to enter into an industry competition named the Spirit of Scotland Trophy. The trophy was a major event at the time, all participants will have been motivated to win it and you can be certain that the blend put forward as an 18-year-old was deemed exceptional and ready for release at this point. But as well as bottling the 18-year-old for release, the Gordon family held back a separate portion of the blend for onward maturation in well-used American oak casks for a further 28 years! This allowed the flavours within what was already deemed to be an exceptional mature blend deepen and grow in stature over time, without becoming dominated by cask influence. It created what is now a majestic spirit that we – in 2022 – also deemed to be ready for release. Both the 18-year-old and the 46-year-old are exceptional examples of their kind.

I noticed that the majority of expressions in this release were very elegant and refined. Was this deliberate?

We have the luxury of working with some spirits that are highly unusual – some of which don’t have any obvious position within the Scotch whisky flavour map but I’m personally pleased that you find them all to be refined. Part of this comes – I believe – through the age and cask selection process that has taken place over the years. Anything that was not good enough to make the cut would have been weeded out long ago by others so we have the great advantage of working with refined, and as you say, often elegant stocks laid down and managed by others.  

What legacy do you hope to create with this collection, and how do you envision it being remembered in the whisky community?

With each of our collections, we hope the whisky community and beyond will recognise how exceptional blends, blended malts and grain whiskies can be. We hope to show through the wide variety and surprising flavours within our collections that they can be just as exquisite as the finest single malts. Given that most grain whisky is used within blends, it rarely reaches beyond 3 years old – so to have several grain whiskies at 30+ years old is relatively unheard of. Very few people realise this but in terms of composition this kind of whisky (blends and grains at this kind of age) really is the rarest whisky available within Scotch – there’s nothing quite like it and vanishingly little stock. It’s a joy to have access to it and to be able to share it with others.

THE LEGACY COLLECTION

The Hazelwood Highlander 33-Year-Old 45.8%

A delicate straw hue hints at the refined elegance of this 33-year-old Highland whisky. On the nose, it opens with an inviting bouquet of boiled pear sweets, mingling harmoniously with the crisp freshness of Golden Delicious apples and a drizzle of warm honey. The aroma is both comforting and sophisticated, setting the stage for what's to come.

Upon the first sip, you are met with the buttery richness of tea biscuits, perfectly complemented by the subtle, aromatic notes of Earl Grey tea. As the flavours unfold, a gentle spice emerges, led by cloves, adding depth without overpowering the delicate balance. Underlying all of this is a smooth, creamy layer of vanilla that lingers, tying the experience together with a satisfying finish.

This whisky is a masterclass in subtlety, offering a complex and intricate flavour profile that rewards those who take the time to savour its nuances.

The Transatlantic 33-Year-Old (grain whisky) 57.3%

Bottled at an impressive 57.3%, this grain whisky distinguishes itself with a nose that is bold and assertive, standing in contrast to the more restrained Highlander. The aroma is rich with quince jam and ripe apricots, their sweetness heightened by a delicate floral undertone that draws you in from the first whiff.

As you take your first sip, you notice a luxurious depth, unfolding like a well-worn map of sensory delights. The taste is dominated by the robust flavour of vintage marmalade, its bitter-sweet complexity balanced perfectly by the nutty richness of toasted almonds. A silky layer of melted butter coats the tongue, while notes of cooked apples and cinnamon evoke the warmth of a cozy kitchen on a crisp autumn day.

The finish is exceptionally long and lingering. It leaves behind a gentle warmth and a touch of spice that lingers long after the last sip. Like many of the grain whiskies released by the House of Hazelwood, this 33-year-old has aged with grace and dignity, offering a sophisticated whisky that showcases the potential of well-matured grain spirits.

Queen of the Hebrides Islay 36-Year-Old 43.4%

This 6-year-old Islay whisky greets you with a seductive wave of smoke on the nose, reminiscent of smouldering peat fires and the rich, savoury aroma of beef jus. It's a welcoming invitation that hints at the complexity and depth beneath the surface.

On the palate, the whisky is nothing short of refined elegance. The smoke evolves into a more nuanced experience, taking on the character of burning embers, delicate yet persistent. As you taste further, dark stone fruits emerge, with damsons leading the charge, adding a subtle sweetness that contrasts beautifully with the smoky backdrop.

As the flavours continue to unfold, brown sugar begins to appear through the palate, adding warmth and richness. This is followed by a gentle hint of vanilla, which softens the edges and adds to the whisky’s complexity.

The finish is remarkable, effortlessly lingering for a full five minutes. It leaves a lasting impression, with the smoky and sweet elements gradually fading, but never fully disappearing. The Queen of the Hebrides is a true masterpiece of Islay.

The Silk Traveller 44-Year-Old (grain whisky) 47.6%

As a lover of mature grain whisky, I found this to be nothing short of wonderful, hitting every mark with grace and precision.

On the nose, it unveiled a bouquet of tropical and spice-laden aromas. Ripe mango takes center stage, its juicy sweetness working with the creamy richness of coconut. A subtle yet distinctive hint of nutmeg adds a layer of warmth and spice, giving great aromatics that asre both inviting and exotic.

The palate reveals a silky, creamy texture that envelops the senses. Honeyed notes come to the forefront, mingling effortlessly with the nutty richness of hazelnuts. As the flavours deepen, there's a hint of sugar puffs (which I never liked, but enjoy the smell of), bringing a touch of nostalgic sweetness, while figs introduce a subtle fruitiness that adds to the whisky's complexity.

This is a whisky of refined elegance, one that manages to be both complex and approachable. The depth of flavours and the smooth, lingering finish make it a perfect companion for a long evening of sipping and savouring.

THE CHARLES GORDON COLLECTION

The Garden at Hazelwood 47-Year-Old 43.7%

Whiskies of this venerable age are rare treasures, deserving of time and contemplation to fully appreciate their grandeur. 

From the moment you lift the glass, the nose is an elegant display of what I suspect to be the influence of old bourbon barrels. A fresh, herbal aroma of lemon balm first, bringing a gentle zestiness that mingles beautifully with the creamy sweetness of vanilla. The delicate scent of verbena adds a floral nuance, while an undercurrent of spiced honey creates another layer.

On the palate, the honey continues. This sweetness is soon complemented by the familiar creaminess of vanilla. As the whisky develops in the glass, a note of marzipan emerges, bringing with it a soft, nutty sweetness that perfectly balances the initial flavours. A hint of thyme introduces an herbal twist, adding an unexpected layer of complexity.

It is delicate yet profound, with a finish that lingers gently, allowing you to enjoy the experience long after the glass is empty. 

The Old Ways 1972 (blended grain) 50.1%

As a whisky enthusiast, few experiences are as eagerly anticipated as tasting a dram from your birth year, and The Old Ways 1972 did not disappoint. 

On the nose, the whisky presents a beautifully herbaceous profile, filled with layers of aroma. There's a hint of mint that gives freshness, complemented by the warming, spice note of clove. The addition of whipped Chantilly cream lends a softness, while a subtle cereal note grounds the experience, reminding you of the whisky's grain origins.

The palate continues the journey with a delicate sweetness. The spice from the nose translates onto the tongue. The flavours evoke the comforting warmth of baked apples infused with cloves, their natural sweetness balanced perfectly by the creamy richness of vanilla custard. The combination is familiar, offering a taste that is rich yet refined and comforting.

The finish seemed to last an eternity. The lingering flavours were so captivating that I found myself impatient to taste the next dram. A testament to the whisky's ability to hold your attention and keep you coming back for more. This continuity of flavour, where the experience stretches out and evolves, is rare and precious

A Minute to Midnight 45-Year-Old 58.6%

A deep, rich mahogany hue hints at the luxurious influence of a long sherry cask finish. The nose leaves little doubt, bursting with the classic hallmarks of what I suspect is an Oloroso sherry butt. The aroma is a vibrant melè of dried fruits - plump raisins, succulent apricots, and richly sweet figs, all melding together creating a smell that you must go back to. Adding contrast is the spicy warmth of stem ginger, which cuts through the sweetness, while the familiar presence of vanilla adds a smooth, comforting undertone.

On the palate, it is nothing short of extraordinary. The mouthfeel is thick, oily, and utterly decadent, enveloping the senses with a luxurious richness that demands your full attention. Each sip reveals layer upon layer of intense flavour. It’s like a bowl of Christmas pudding, where every bite is packed with dark fruits and spices

This is a dram to be savoured slowly, a whisky that rewards patience and appreciation. The finish is long, leaving behind a warmth and richness that seems to defy the passage of time.