David's Whisky Musings No 11

Glen Scotia | Whisky Exchange | Jack Daniels | Bladnoch | White Peak

Glen Scotia Campbeltown Malts 2024 edition - £64.95 from Master of Malt

Nestled on the remote Kintyre Peninsula in Scotland, the small town of Campbeltown holds a significant place in the world of whisky. Once known as the "whisky capital of the world," Campbeltown was home to over 30 distilleries in the 19th century. Today, only three remain: Glen Scotia, Springbank, and Glengyle. Despite this decline, Campbeltown continues to produce some of the most distinctive whiskies in the industry. It is also experiencing a mini-revival with 3 more distilleries in the planning stages. Exciting times indeed. 

The Campbeltown Malts Festival was established in 2008 to celebrate the rich history and continued excellence of the town's distilleries. As mentioned, whisky-making here dates back to the early 19th century, with the abundance of distilleries taking full advantage of the town's location, with its deep-sea harbour, making it an ideal spot for exporting. The decline of the industry in the early 20th century, due to factors such as economic downturns, Prohibition in the United States, and competition from other whisky regions, left only a few distilleries standing. 

Glen Scotia has been producing whisky since 1832 and plays a central role in the festival. Each year, the distillery releases a special edition to commemorate the event, featuring unique cask finishes with limited availability. This year they released a 9-year-old that has been finished in Fino sherry casks and unpeated. It has been bottled at 56.2% making it beautifully robust. 

Fino is a dry-style sherry that has benefitted from a “flor” when ageing. Flor is a layer of yeast that forms on the surface of fino sherry during its ageing process. This layer acts as a protective barrier, preventing oxidation and allowing the sherry to develop its distinctive dry, nutty flavour and pale colour. The presence of flor is crucial in defining the character of fino sherry. If you have ever tried Tio Pepe you will be familiar with it. 

The nose is fresh and floral of wildflowers with delicate hints of white peach and a touch of freshly cut grass. Light notes of lemon zest and green apple appear, with butterscotch, vanilla and honey in the background. The first sip showed orchard fruits, such as pears and crisp apples. As the flavours develop, a gentle oak spice emerges, with cinnamon, nutmeg, and a hint of clove. There is a salinity about this also, giving a salted caramel flavour. The mouthfeel is smooth and well-rounded, with a balance between the fruity and spicy elements.

At £65 I found this to be very enjoyable and a refreshing change from PX or Oloroso finishes. 

Bladnoch The Wave 53.8% - £150 from Bladnoch

The WAVE I is the second series in the Master Distiller's Collection from Bladnoch Distillery. It is an annual release highlighting the art of marrying casks and curated by Dr Nick Savage. It was tipped to tun in 2022 and bottled in 2024, resulting in a limited release of 1,817 bottles.

Bladnoch says:- “The WAVE I: TIME & MATURATION showcases Bladnoch's method of selecting casks at the peak time of the maturation process for optimal flavour.  For this first release,  a 1,500-litre Amontillado Sherry tun was filled with Bladnoch whiskies from its extensive stock across the years, all matured in ex-Bourbon casks and combined with the fifth and final release of its Waterfall series.”

Upon nosing, I got lots of soft fruits, specifically peaches with some lovely whipped cream and a butterscotch sauce. On the palate, richly flavoured fruits are abundant such as cooked and spiced apricots, a hint of cassis, vanilla and toffee. This has a lot of complexity, full-bodied with a length that just goes on and on. A very tasty dram. 

White Peak Wire Works Bourbon Barrel 53.4% - £59.95 from White Peak

I am a big fan of the relative newcomer White Peak, based in Derbyshire, which is producing some very tasty whisky (I previously wrote a feature on them which you can read here). They have just released a Bourbon Barrel (their oldest whisky to date) which I have been fortunate enough to taste a sample of. The nose is very inviting with lemon rind, pear and marzipan with a wonderful freshness to it. The palate is alive with honey, vanilla, poached pears and cream with stem ginger. There is a spice that is well integrated into the whisky and works harmoniously with the fruits. I am a firm believer in supporting the newer distilleries especially when the whisky is this good. I suggest you order a bottle right away. 

The Whisky Exchange

The Whisky Exchange has recently announced the launch of its Seasons range, starting with 3 expressions for summer. The remaining 9 bottles (3 for each season) will be released as we move into each season. Each is a single cask so given the size of the business and popularity of their stores, I imagine these to depart their shelves faster than a Tour de France rider on a time trial. 

I greatly admire how the team at TWE do not rest on their laurels and consistently innovates. Having sampled these I am already looking forward to what that will be offering for autumn. 

Ardmore 1997 26 years old 50.3% - £199 at The Whisky Exchange

Founded in 1898 by Adam Teacher, the Ardmore Distillery was established to supply whisky for the Teacher's blend, which required a robust Highland malt. Ardmore's strategic location near the railway allowed it to thrive and grow, ensuring a steady supply of quality whisky for blending and single malt expressions.

I have a particular affinity for whisky distilled in 1997, as it was the year my son was born. I hadn’t tasted an Ardmore of this age before and was excited to see what could be achieved. 

Ardmore has traditionally been used in Teachers (do not be put off!) as a staple of the blend, and if you have tried their Legacy, will know that it is often peated. 

This is entirely different. The nose is rich, complex and very inviting with the total absence of smoke. It smells like a very strong fruit punch that has had apricot coulis added to it. I really could smell it for hours, but the allure of tasting was all too powerful. I was surprised by how savoury it was, almost meaty, which is something I enjoy. It has a great depth to it and is almost BBQ-like, but without the smoke, which played with my mind. Fruit compote glazed sausages came to my mind as the intensity built. In addition, there was an element of honey, which contrasted with the savouriness. Delicious and complex. 

Benriach 2008 15 years old 51.9% - £110 at The Whisky Exchange

The history of Benriach also dates back to 1898 when it was founded by John Duff. Despite facing early challenges, including a lengthy period of dormancy, the distillery was rejuvenated in 1965 and later in 2004 when it was acquired by a group led by Billy Walker, one of the most revered names in whisky. In 2016 it was purchased by Brown Forman, who incidentally also owns Ardmore 

An inviting nose of summer…think ripe stone fruits such as apricots, mango and nectarine, combined with the obligatory vanilla and butterscotch. In the mouth, it has a welcoming spice with nutmeg coming to the fore. This is complemented by orange flavours like you would find in a Crêpe Suzette sauce, with a gentle hint of smoke that rises from the background. 

Lowland 2012 11 years old 58.8% - £69.95 at The Whisky Exchange

A delicate and grassy nose with cereal notes and rich tea biscuits with a little citrus. The palate is a lot fuller than expected rich with flavours and it conceals the high abv well. Honey, biscuits, black tea and ripe mango all make an appearance. 

Jack Daniels Bonded Rye - widely available. 

Jack Daniel’s is synonymous with American whiskey and is renowned for its iconic Tennessee Old No.7. It is the oldest registered distillery in the United States, established in 1866 by Jasper Newton “Jack” Daniel. You are probably all too familiar with their ubiquitous Sour Mash, seen in virtually every grocery store and bar in the Western world. The Bonded Rye I am writing about here offers an alternative and showcases the brand’s diversity within its product range.

To appreciate this Bonded Rye, it is essential to understand the historical context of the Bottled-in-Bond Act. Enacted in 1897, this legislation aimed to ensure the quality and authenticity of American whiskey. Under the act, bonded whiskey must be aged for at least four years, distilled by a single distiller in a single distillation season, and bottled at 100 proof (50% alcohol by volume). These stringent requirements guarantee a certain standard of quality and consistency.

Rye whiskey, once a dominant force in American spirits, experienced a decline during the Prohibition era and the subsequent rise of bourbon. However, the past decade has seen a resurgence in its popularity, driven by a growing appreciation for its distinct, spicy profile. Jack Daniel’s Bonded Rye is part of this revival, offering a premium rye whiskey that meets the Bottled-in-Bond standards.

The mash bill for Jack Daniel’s Bonded Rye consists of 70% rye, 18% corn, and 12% malted barley. This high rye content gives the whiskey its characteristic spiciness, while the corn and malted barley contribute sweetness and complexity. The whiskey is distilled in traditional copper stills.

One of the defining features of Jack Daniel’s, and one they love to promote is the charcoal mellowing process, also known as the Lincoln County Process. After distillation, the rye whiskey is filtered through 10 feet of sugar maple charcoal. This process, unique to Tennessee whiskey, so used by multiple other distilleries, imparts a smoothness by removing impurities and harsh flavours.

Following the charcoal mellowing process, it has been aged in new, charred American oak barrels. The whiskey is then stored in the distillery’s bonded warehouses, where it remains for a minimum of four years. 

On the nose, I found it herbaceous with notes of morello cherry juice. These were in addition to the vanilla, caramel and spice you would expect. The initial sip reveals a strong rye spiciness, with flavours of dried fruits, black pepper and nuts dominating. This spiciness (ginger included) is balanced by the sweetness of caramel and vanilla.

This is a lovely sipper, but also at this price point an excellent choice for classic rye whiskey cocktails. Its bold flavour stands up well in a Manhattan or an Old Fashioned, but I loved it in a Boulevardier. This is a Negroni but with the gin substitute for whiskey. It was delicious!