David's Whisky Musings - Issue 9
SMWS | Whisky Exchange | Cask Trade | Tiffon Cognac
SMWS
Freeform Jazz (Small Batch) 57.5% - £90.00
I recently wrote about the Scotch Malt Whisky Society, encouraging you to join and have access to some truly delicious whisky. Membership is essential to access and purchase the exclusive single-cask whiskies bottled by the society. The membership fee in the UK is £85 for the first year. New members receive:-
The option to buy 20 new single cask bottles a month, with society drams and discounts in around 100 SMWS partner bars around the world. There are also virtual and in-person tastings, events and festivals held at the Members’ Rooms, partner bars and other venues in the UK and around the world.
The Members’ Rooms where you can sign in up to three guests on each visit are located at:
The Vaults, Leith: Located in a historic building, The Vaults is the society's original home. The venue features traditional decor with modern touches, offering a cosy and atmospheric setting for enjoying whisky.
28 Queen Street, Edinburgh: Situated in Edinburgh’s New Town, this Georgian townhouse blends elegance with a relaxed atmosphere. The Queen Street venue also includes the Kaleidoscope Bar, open to both members and non-members and has been recognized as the Icons of Whisky Global Bar of the Year in 2022.
38 Bath Street, Glasgow: This venue offers a contemporary yet intimate setting in the heart of Glasgow. It is designed to provide a comfortable space for members to explore the society's extensive whisky collection.
19 Greville Street, London: Located in the Farringdon district, the London members' room combines industrial chic with traditional elements, creating a distinctive environment for whisky tasting and events.
One of this month’s releases in the “Flavour Hunters Festival”, is the Freeform Jazz 15-year-old from Speyside. I am not going to write a tasting note for this, as their own is simply great! It also gives you a flavour of what they are like as an organisation:-
Using burnt twigs we stirred coal tar and beech wood-smoked nectarines into a medicinal potion of chamomile and syrup. Then to the mix came figs infused with hickory smoke, sweet mustard and orange segments, before in went barbecued brisket to simmer. A dash of water caused the flames from burning heather to tickle the rind of bacon dipped in treacle as the skin of juicy pineapples bubbled and popped. Our attention now turned to sticky ginger cake and walnuts in brioche buns, fresh from the oven and finished with bramble jam, coffee beans and sprigs of thyme. The starting point for this small batch was two bourbon hogsheads of single-malt Scotch whisky. One cask was transferred at 11 years old to a first fill American oak PX hogshead, and the other at 10 years old to a refill Spanish oak oloroso hogshead. The casks were then married together before bottling.
I love this! If you haven’t joined the society yet, I strongly suggest you consider it. Not only do you have access to bottles like this, but also the regular tasting and in their member’s rooms. I shall be talking more about these in a future article, once I have had an opportunity to visit them.
Whisky Exchange Exclusives
Dad’s Dram 56% - £59.95 from The Whisky Exchange
Released for Father’s Day in June, this has a very fruity nose of ripe red apple, honey and toffee. The palate is rich with a lovely spice running through that complements the orchard fruits, butter and caramel flavours. The packaging is modern and bright. As a father, this is the type of gift I love to receive, especially when the whisky is as tasty as this is.
Ardnamurchan AD/08:18 Cask 1058 59.1% - £94.95 from The Whisky Exchange
This has a deep mahogany colour and an ABV of 59.1%, making it fairly robust. The nose bursts with vibrant aromas that draw you in for a closer inspection. The initial scent is of spicy morello cherries with polished dark wood and umami notes. The nose was so engaging I almost lost track of time as I explored its many layers - it was wonderful.
The palate is full and spicy, with a backbone that carries the flavours well. As the whisky opens up, the deep, dark flavours of treacle appear, offering a rich, molasses-like sweetness. This is enhanced with notes of honey and further developed with cinnamon, adding a warm, aromatic spiciness. The finish is impressive with its length and depth, lingering on the palate for several minutes. The dark treacle and honey persist, gradually fading into cinnamon and butterscotch.
Glenallachie 2009 14-Year-Old 60.3% - £150 from The Whisky Exchange
Another exclusive and from a distillery I love. Bottled at 60.3%, this is rich and complex, making it a great choice for those seeking depth and character. It is intensely aromatic with aromas of freshly baked fruitcake. This is swiftly followed by the zesty and vibrant notes of orange peel. The spice profile begins to reveal itself with a warm hint of cloves and a slight scent of lemon. I also found a little blackcurrant jam.
Taste-wise, it is dry, with caramel immediately making its presence known. Then there is the creamy, buttery flavour of vanilla fudge. The nutty richness of hazelnuts also comes through, along with hints of espresso. The finish has spiced apricots, combining the natural sweetness of the fruit with a hint of warming spice that lingers pleasantly.
Cask Trade
I don’t write about whisky cask investment companies as a rule. This unregulated space is littered with cowboys, promising impossible returns, and I don’t want to be associated with them. However, I feel differently about Cask Trade having met them in person, heard their story, and learned about the blue-chip companies they work with, both in sourcing whisky and in bottling it.
A couple of weeks ago, I visited their offices on Regent Street to taste several cask samples they had previously bottled. I was duly impressed. There is no need to go into details or tasting notes, as they are unavailable to purchase, but I can say the quality level of the extensive samples was superb. A set of delicious Springbanks, Bunnahahbhain, Craigellachie, and a very rare North of Scotland distilled in 1973 were included.
What sets Cask Trade apart for me is its commitment to providing an honest platform for whisky cask investments, steering clear of the dubious practices that plague the industry. The company was founded by Simon Aron, an industry veteran with over 30 years of experience, with the help of Keeper of the Quaich, Colin Hampden-White.
Simon Aron’s extensive background in the industry gives Cask Trade a solid foundation of knowledge and credibility. His vision for the company is to create a transparent and trustworthy marketplace for whisky casks, something sorely needed in the current market. Colin Hampden-White, with his prestigious title of Keeper of the Quaich, brings a deep understanding of whisky's cultural and historical significance.
Cask Trade prides itself on its rigorous cask selection process, with each cask carefully evaluated. During my visit, the passion and knowledge of the team were evident. They are not just brokers; they are whisky enthusiasts committed to sharing their love for whisky. Their approach is refreshingly genuine, focusing on the long-term enjoyment and appreciation of whisky rather than quick financial gain.
Coachbuilt
Coachbuilt Whisky is a collaboration between Jenson Button and George Koutsakis, a whisky expert and writer. The idea was to create a whisky that celebrates the craftsmanship of coachbuilding, the traditional art of building bespoke car bodies.
The whisky is sourced from various regions across Scotland, a deliberate choice to capture the diverse flavours and characteristics that each region offers. They have matured in a range of casks, including American oak, European oak, and sherry, allowing George to have an array of flavours to use when blending.
The whisky is smooth and balanced, with a bouquet of dried fruits, vanilla, and subtle spice, hinting at the diverse cask influences. The palate is well-rounded, with notes of toffee, caramel, and a hint of smoke. It works exceptionally well in cocktails, as I discovered recently from the team at The Savoy. More of this in a future article…
Tiffon Cognac
Rooted in the heart of Cognac, this family-owned distillery boasts a history dating back to 1875. The distillery was established by Medéric Tiffon, whose passion for cognac laid the foundation for the brand. The early 20th century saw significant expansion under the stewardship of Sverre Braastad, a Norwegian who married into the Tiffon family. Braastad's influence was instrumental in expanding Tiffon's reach, particularly in the Scandinavian markets.
They primarily use Ugni Blanc grapes, known for their high acidity and ability to produce a light, floral spirit. The distillation is in traditional copper pot stills, known as alembics. They use a diverse range of barrels for maturation, which include new oak and those that have previously held other spirits, such as sherry or port.
Braastad Gaby Studer 42.9%
The nose is aromatic with the fruity scent of apricots and tangerine. Butter adds a creamy, rich depth, while hints of fruit cake bring a complex blend of dried fruits, spices, and a touch of alcohol warmth. It is light yet flavorful, with a gentle spice that compliments its fruity character. The initial taste is of a baked apple filled with sultanas, offering a warm, comforting sweetness with an apricot coulis, adding a fresh, slightly tart fruitiness that balances it out. The presence of sherry notes, from its maturation in sherry casks, gives a subtle nutty and raisiny depth.
Braastad A-Mo 42%
The nose is of rich tea biscuits, with violet sherbet, adding a floral and slightly effervescent quality. The floral tones are enhanced by subtle hints of chocolate. The taste reminds me of rum and raisin ice cream, offering a creamy, slightly boozy sweetness that is both rich and smooth. As the flavour develops, there are hints of spearmint, providing a fresh and slightly herbal note.
Braastad Extra 40%
This is amber in colour with mahogany highlights. On the nose I found the spicy and sweet aroma of ginger nut biscuits, with burnt orange, providing a slightly bitter and caramelised citrus character. Walnuts add a nutty, earthy depth, while acacia introduces a delicate floral sweetness. The initial flavour is like cola cubes, which was quite nostalgic. This is followed by liquorice and prune juice, adding a fruity complexity. Grape flavours contribute a fresh and juicy element.
Braastad XXO 40%
The nose opens with dried figs, then the tropical scent of coconut, adding a rich and exotic dimension. Toffee notes provide a warm, caramelised sweetness that ties the aromas together. The initial taste showed earthy notes of mushroom, offering an umami-rich quality. Further complexity came from dried citrus fruit peel that introduced fruitiness to the flavour profile.