BUSHMILLS 15 YEAR OLD
Nestled in the historic village of Bushmills in Northern Ireland, the Old Bushmills Distillery, established in 1608 (given its license by King James I), is one of the world's oldest licensed distilleries. Steeped in tradition and close to the famous Giants Causeway, Bushmills maintains a delicate balance between heritage and innovation, albeit with a more measured approach compared to the avant-garde Method and Madness I previously wrote about.
Recently, the exceptionally talented Alex Thomas has been appointed as the Master Blender, following years of dedicated service at Bushmills. Having had the pleasure of dining next to her, I have witnessed her total passion for the brand. This passion often translates into quality, as it reflects a deep personal investment and meticulous attention to detail. I feel Alex has an unwavering commitment to excellence, where complacency will never be an option.Â
The new 15-year-old Single Malt has become part of the core range, and demonstrates this commitment. Aged for 14 years in bourbon casks, it has then spent an additional 12 months in Cognac casks. The bourbon casks have given it a rich sweetness with hints of vanilla, while the Cognac cask adds layers of fruit, nuts, and subtle spiciness. This dual maturation process marks a refreshing departure from the typical sherry cask finish that Bushmills is known for.
On the nose, there are notes of dark chocolate, intertwined with dried apricots and fig rolls. An underlying hint of almond and a delicate floral aroma adds to its complexity. The palate is initially delicate, offering a honeyed sweetness and ripe fruits before transitioning to a more robust profile of toasted oak, rich toffee and a pear tarte tatin. Subtle hints of cinnamon and nutmeg emerge. As the whiskey opens up, flavours of dried orange peel and a slight nuttiness linger on the tongue.
One minor disappointment is that, while Colum Egan is acknowledged on the label, Alex Thomas is not. In my view, whiskey creation is a collaborative effort between the Master Distiller and the Master Blender. Arguably, the Master Blender's role is even more crucial, akin to a conductor leading an orchestra to harmonious perfection. I feel Alex’s signature should be present too.Â
Having recently tasted several Bushmills releases, I am thoroughly impressed. The distillery holds a special place in my heart, as their Black Bush expression was one of the first whiskies I truly enjoyed back in the late 1980s. I am looking forward to an opportunity to visit Bushmills, combining this pilgrimage with a visit to Method and Madness, to write in-depth articles. Interestingly, the village of Bushmills, with a population of a little over 1300, is twinned with Louisville in Kentucky. Being the capital of Bourbon, maybe I should continue my trip there and take a few bottles of Bushmills to share with them.Â